Being one of New Jersey’s oldest restaurants comes with glory. But cooking, serving and entertaining in a nearly 300-year-old building is also saddled with its own set of challenges.
So when the Black Horse Tavern & Pub in Mendham—the state’s oldest continuously operating restaurant—embarked on a massive multimillion-dollar renovation last March, there was no shortage of hurdles to overcome: from improving the condition of the building itself, which dates back to 1742 (when George Washington was a customer), to striking a balance between modernizing the restaurant and preserving its history, to pleasing the loyal legion of diners who were eager to return when it finally reopened its doors in January.
The Black Horse dates back to 1742, when George Washington ate here. Photo: Strix Media
“The Pub has always been this very iconic and emotionally driven restaurant for Mendham and in the surrounding communities,” says Kevin Felice, vice president of 40North Restaurants, which has owned the Black Horse since 2007. “And we want to make sure that we can maintain that for decades to come.”
The Black Horse has two buildings on its property in downtown Mendham—the Pub, a hospitality-driven, family-friendly eatery and bar, and the Tavern, a higher-end restaurant that in recent years had only been open for private events. The nearly 10 months of renovations only focused on the Pub; work on the Tavern, which unfortunately experienced a fire and subsequent damage during renovations, is expected to begin later this year.
The most significant upgrades were to areas that guests will never visit. The kitchen and back-of-house facilities were gutted to the studs; the basement (which, in past incarnations, had been a bar and even a furniture-restoration shop) now has a full prep kitchen, storage and more. The roof and siding were redone a couple of years ago.
The 1742 burger is an off-menu item that locals are dubbing the “secret burger.” Photo: Strix Media
The dining room, which was completely rebuilt, has a refreshed, modern-rustic look. It’s on-trend, but not sterile. Think: vaulted ceilings, cozy yet sleek-looking booths with brass accents, and vintage artwork, much of it equestrian-themed. The booths are meant to resemble horse stalls, as what’s now the Pub served as the horse stables for Tavern guests back in George Washington’s day.
Some touches of the Black Horse of yore were intentionally incorporated into the new design, like the beloved Clam Bar sign and much of the artwork. The check presenters and coasters are made from wood that used to be on the walls in the back room, now cutely dubbed the Fox’s Den. And the ceiling beams in the beautifully renovated Fox’s Den are made of the original wood floors.
A selection of dinner options, including pot pie (top left), garlic shrimp (center) and a beef and citrus salad. Photo: Strix Media
The menu, helmed by executive chef Dan Zappula, is filled with American classics, burgers and sandwiches, but with a level of elevation. Standout starters include the smashed avocado, served with warm tortilla chips, and the delightful burrata, which comes with slow-roasted tomatoes, fire-roasted peppers, prosciutto and basil. A gooey crock of French onion soup is always a great way to start a meal, too.
Entrées include a juicy brine-roasted chicken, steak frites, and crispy fish & chips.
But the buzziest item isn’t even on the menu. The 1742 burger, which locals have dubbed the “secret burger,” is a $29 patty made of a proprietary blend of meat the restaurant spent months perfecting. So why not list it?
“We wanted it to be a Mendham secret; we wanted it to be for our guest base,” Felice says. The burger is simple, without frills, so if you prefer your burger with lots of toppings and sauces, order the on-menu Black Label burger, a smash patty with American cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato, pickle, barn sauce and shaved onion, served on sesame challah.
The Pretty Pickle cocktail Photo: Strix Media
“The menu is very straightforward,” Felice says. “It’s food that you understand.” He adds, “It was very important to us to still be your local place where you can feel comfortable coming with your kids and having an after-soccer game meal, but also a space that’s perfect for date night and business meetings, and a menu that gives you the ability to kind of hit all those areas.” A kids’ menu is also available.
Dinner is served daily, while lunch is available on weekdays (except for Tuesdays), and brunch is offered on weekends.
Brunch options include the Eggs in Purgatory, featuring baked eggs, a slow-cooked spiced tomato sauce, burrata, roasted peppers and basil. Photo: Strix Media
With any reimagining of a classic, critics inevitably pop up. But the Black Horse is taking any snipes in stride, even posting video to social media that, with humor, brushed off customer complaints about everything from the food to the “Chip and Joanna Gaines” style of decor.
Critics aside, the restaurant has been packed since reopening on January 13. On a recent Friday night, when my family and I had an early 5:30 pm reservation, there was a two-hour wait. A later Thursday night out with girlfriends was buzzing with couples and groups toasting with the Black Horse’s playful selection of cocktails.
Next up, the Pub plans to complete renovations of its improved outdoor space this spring, adding a sectioned-off area with retaining walls and stone.
Art from the old Pub and Tavern dots the walls. Photo: Strix Media
As for the Tavern, Felice says plans are still being worked out, and were impacted by the fire, but that construction is slated to start later this year.
He declined to say whether the space would once again be open beyond private events, but did say, “We are looking forward to bringing that building back to what it once was and what it needs to be.”
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